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AIS, thanks.
I will be experimenting over the next few days. But I have found that there's another setting on the new Sony AX33 that does allow me to shoot in 1080 30p. It's XAVC S HD at 30p. And the quality seems to be really very good (good enough for my needs).
Unfortunately I have some major issues at work for the next few days and they're seriously affecting my play time.
I really did like that swap/rename and produce trick though.
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Shadowman, thanks! I was called away in the middle of writing my reply to Barry and when I finally posted, your reply was there.
I'm going to have to research the differences between XAVC S HD and AVCHD and also will need to check out Tony's post.
I've just had the new Sony for 24 hours so far, and I've got a lot to learn.
Cheers!
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Thanks for replying, Barry.
You are probably right (that I'm missing something... namely KNOWLEDGE!).
Yes the camera does 30p, but it seems ONLY in 4K mode. When you switch to AVCHD to get 1080p, it only gives the choice of 60i, 60p or 24p.
If I use XAVC S HD it gives options of 60p, 30p or 24p. Maybe that's what I should be using.
Now I've got to research what the differences are between XAVC S HD and AVCHD.
But I guess the bottom line is that I should be using 30P on all the cameras.
And what if I shot in 4K? Should I then preprocess that to bring it down to 1080 30P before bringing the clip into my project?
Cheers!
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After testing a bunch of different video cameras, I just settled on a new Sony AX33 as my main "real" video camera. And besides that, I have a bunch of still cameras which also do excellent video (Canon 5DIII, Fuji XE-2, etc.).
I now find that the new Sony doesn't (seem) to do 1080p 30 fps. It does 24 fps. My other cameras all do 30 fps.
Am I getting myself into trouble with this? Are there any issues in terms of mixing footage from the different cameras?
Any tips on how to get the most efficient workflow/results from my multiple cameras?
I don't need to shoot 4k video, but the Sony does it. I've heard that it's often an advantage to shoot in 4k even if your end result will only be 1080p. If I do that, would it be best to first take the 4k footage, and do a rough edit first and then produce a 1080p 30 fps result that I then bring back into my project?
Thanks guys, for any tips/suggestions about how to be the most efficient with this.
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I'm relatively new to PDR13 myself, but I don't believe it has the feature to let you record screen activity from your computer. I agree that using your camcorder isn't the best option.
There are software programs out there to do what you want, but unfortunately I have no experience with any of them. But before I purchased PDR13, I tried Corel's VisualStudio (which I ended up not liking) and it actually included a module to do what you want.
A quick Google search turns up a program called "Snagit" which seems to be fairly popular.
And as far as PDR13 being complicated... I was overwhelmed at the start, but with a little patience and the kind help of members here, I'm now feeling a lot more comfortable with it and am even doing multi-camera video editing.
Good luck!
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Extended download service? Geez, I've NEVER paid for that because I've never purchased it. I have always felt it was MY responsibility to properly archive whatever I purchase and download, so that if I ever have to reinstall I can do so easily. If anyone cannot safely archive their downloads, well, they've always got the option of paying for an extended download service.
I'm not aware of any major software company which does NOT charge for premium phone support, but likewise, I've never needed it. Especially with such terrific user-to-user support forums such as this one.
If you are having a problem with the software, have you tried posting a question here to see if someone can help? There are a lot of really helpful and knowledgeable folks here (not me... I'm a beginner with video).
Good luck and I hope you feel better soon.
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The website says that Power2Go 10 Essential is a FREE download that does NOT expire. When you d/l it, you also get a 15-day trial of the Platinum version which does expire.
For the purposes being discussed here, what exactly is it that the Essential (free) version won't do? It really isn't clear on the CL site what the differences are.
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What you're looking for is "produce range". If you don't know where to look it can be tricky to find it. If you look at your timeline, next to the position marker are two small yellow markers. You drag those out to select the portion of the video you want and then you'll see a new option to "produce range".
Hope this helps.
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What kind of camera are you using? A dedicated video camera should film in continuous mode. Some still cameras, which also produce video, are limited in the length a clip can be.
Nevertheless, the best audio would be produced by a dedicated audio recorder and it doesn't really need to be fancy. I've just switched to using a lapel mic (Rode SmartLav+) and my iPhone (believe it or not) for recording the audio on how-to videos. Day and night difference for the better.
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Can you find the project on your hard drive?
Have you deleted anything or moved something? Renamed the directory?
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Barry, you keep saying that there's no SSD in your near future and from other comments you've made, it sounds like you think it's some kind of big job to install one.
Well...
If you get one of the Kingston SSD drives (64 or 128gb) there are models of that drive which come with a limited version of TrueImage. (I have the full version but have used the limited version as well.) That will allow you to CLONE your drive C: onto the new SSD drive. And you do this either by connecting the SSD via USB or if you have a spare eSata connection by that. (You can get the Kingston drive as a bare drive or as a "kit" and it's the kit you want.)
Once you've done that, you have NOT damaged your existing drive C: in any way, and you shut everything down, pull the old drive and install the new one and boot up. The whole process is incredibly easy and dare I say, foolproof.
I've done that on four computers so far and it's been perfectly successful every time.
And the price of those drives has really come down compared with a year or so ago.
I keep Windows itself and programs on drive C: and put data on my drive D: (and one some computers also on drive E: ).
All I'm saying is don't fear installing an SSD.
Cheers!
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Do NOT select Online!
Produce an MP4 file and then from outside of PDR upload that to YouTube.
And yes, it does take a long time to upload.
Until you get the hang of this procedure why don't you first test with a small (few minute) video first?
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I'm pretty much a beginner with PDR (and video editing in general) so this suggestion might not work...
Have you tried using the Multicam Editor for this? I take it that your audio for syncing is the announcer's voice over the pa system? Picked up well by all the cameras?
Here's how I'd tackle it:
I'd take my GoPro footage (which you say was continuous throughout the entire event) and split it into more manageable chunks. (You shouldn't loose anything by doing this.)
Then I'd take the first "chunk" and the clips from the other two cameras that were from the same time span and put them all into the MultiCam Editor. I'd use that to produce my first finished section. Then I'd take the second "chunk" from the GoPro footage and do the same, etc. until I've got it all done.
I've tried synchronizing by audio on the main editor and it can be done, but it's much harder to then flip back and forth between the different camera views. I find the ME to be really great.
Hope this helps.
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Since Torrent sites are basically breaking copyrights, I would hope that the folks here would not try to help you with this.
If you BUY the movie in question, you should be able to change languages.
(I hope you bought PowerDirector and didn't download it from a pirate site.)
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I had the same question and send a PM to the moderator.
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Kyle, I hope you're enjoying your coffee! Maybe something stronger might be better.
You're RIGHT!
There is definitely something wrong with that first file (the longer one). I've now tried three times to download it, and each time the download just stops (freezes) at 31% or 207.8kb (of 676.3kb).
So I think PIX must have had some sort of glitch in his upload there.
If I leave my download manager (DownThemAll!) alone after that "freeze", and wait about 5 minutes, it finally wakes up again and gives me an error that says "Size mismatch". And the file is NOT downloaded.
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I suspect that what's happening is that you're downloading the first file first, and then downloading the second. WITHOUT FIRST moving that first file to its proper final (resting place) location. So the first file is being overwritten by the second.
Try doing one file at a time and once it's on your system move it to where it should be. Then do the second file.
Hope this helps...
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Paprika77, I think what you're looking for is controlled by the Editing Preferences, called "Switch to movie mode automatically during playback".
If you turn that off, you'll get the behavior you want.
(I had the same problem.)
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I wasn't able to rescue that clip... Yes I could remove the hum but it also (badly) affected the voice. And I wasn't shooting that over. So I chalked it up to learning experience.
Funny, I had 4 cameras going (it was really an effort to practice sync'ing them all) and only one had the hum. I've gone back and tested, and still now only the one camera picks up the hum. (That camera was a Sony RX100III, and the others were Canon PowerShot G7x, Fuji X-E2 and Canon Vixia HF 62.)
I've bought a Rode SmartLav+ and I now use it with my iPhone to record the speaker's voice. And it works REALLY well. Much much better than using any of those cameras to record the sound.
Quote:
That effect can easily be removed in AD with the Hum tool with harmonics. What you have is very broad band noise, when you select a section of this noise to get a profile for AD to filter out it will have significant effect on voice as the frequency content is overlaying speech frequency content so it can't be easily separated. Any chance you had like a room AC vent or air circulation system or the like near the camera? I'd find the source of the noise in the area your filming and correct that.???/
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Whenever I can, I use a program that is mostly for still images (but works quite well with video) called Downloader Pro by Breeze Systems. This renames the files AS IT'S DOWNLOADING them from the SD (or CF) card onto the computer. And in most cases, even with two identical cameras, it's able to tell which camera is which (from the internal camera serial number) and renames the files appropriately.
If your files are already on the computer and you want to rename them, I use the batch rename capability of BreezeBrowser Pro (also by Breeze Systems). It works very well.
If you don't have those programs and don't want to buy them, just do a Google search for "batch rename files" and you'll find several options out there, ranging from free to very low cost, and from very easy and inflexible, to more complicated and very flexible.
But really the bottom line is to have your files renamed appropriately BEFORE you try to bring them into PDR.
Good luck!
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