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Thanks Tomasc, that really helps! I had no idea. I mean, I thought it was strange, but Windows can sometimes be a bit of a mystery. So I'll delete the second tier documents folder, first copying it's contents to the first tier folder making the 1st one.
I'll leave the doc folder in the user, as the 2nd one.
Which still leaves the questions,...why are those cyberlink files loose in the 1st doc folder? and where should they really be? They are a wide variety of files, pngs, jpegs, backgrounds, particles, and colour director files etc.
And, when reinstalling do I install PD11 first, then PD13 over the top? to preserve the original pd11 templates that don't come with pd13?
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Thanks Tony,
The folder with my packed projects is fine then, it's stored in a zillion places, with a zillion copies. I'm super careful with it. (as long as moving things won't break any shortcuts)
OK, attached is a clip of the Documents folder in Library. (you know how there's 3 doc folders? one in library, another as a second tier in the libary, and one under user). The second tier of library and user are the same, but the top tier...the first doc folder, has all these loose cyberlink files in it (no cyberlink or other folders). It has hundreds of things in there. color director files, backgrounds for titles, png files... It's these I'm trying to work out where they should go and how they got there. I want to move them to the place they are supposed to be, as I suspect this is not right. The clip shows only 1/4 of the files in there... Where are they supposed to be? And (maybe you know) why are they saved to this location? is it a setting I'm doing wrong?
And, do I reinstall pd11 first, then pd 13 over the top of it, to retain all the 'old' templates ?
Then, are you saying I need to copy the contents of the folders in red above, to the new folders created by cyberlink on reinstallation? (sorry, really dumb questions, I know.)
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Hi all,
Before Windows 10 comes out, I'm going to reinstall my windows 7 as it has some very annoying corruptions, (thanks kids) and updates that won't update, and I'd rather start with a clean slate and not have those annoyances carry over to W10.
I'm worried about my Cyberink. I had CL PD11, and uninstalled it (which I probably shouldn't have done??) to get CLPD13 Ultimate.
So, what I'm worried about is
a) there seems to be a lot of particle and other files in my documents folder...not MY documents, and not in a 'cyberlink' folder... the Documents one in the library folder, they're loose, very weird. I don't know how they got there. I certainly didn't nominate that place for anything. I prefer things in Cyberlink folders. (but I don't know much about it.)
b) Any templates I've made along the time, in both versions, I'd like to keep. How? and where are they? I've made titles and new particles etc.
c) So, I'm going to reinstall. That means i'll have to reinstall CL too. But do I (this time) install PD11 first? then PD13 over it, to get all the 'old' templates as well as the current ones?
d) and how do I then reinstall my own bits and pieces, like my own templates, downloads I've found from directorzone etc.
e) and what folders should things REALLY be in.
f) if I change folders etc, to what they should be, will my packed projects that I've exported for safekeeping still be ok? I assume so since they have all the things in them, I'm hoping theyre not just shortcuts, or they wont' work any more.
If you could give me a 'how to...' that would be great.
This doesn't make much sense, but hopefully you know what I mean. Thanks.
Jenny
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Hi Carl and Joe,
So glad it's of some use and that you liked it! Thanks!
Carl, I should have said either 'screen' or 'wall', I meant whatever you're aiming your projector at.
I use a white melamine cupboard. It's very white, and very smooth. I also often use a white A4 piece of printer paper, also, the right white and nice and smooth.
Your surface should be 'proper' white. Not cream, or greyish white, or blueish white,...get a white piece of printer paper and hold it against your surface to check. You'll be surprised at the different colours. That's why I didn't use cardboard, too grey and fibrous.
Also, I have used cardboard and eventually it got a few dirty bits on it, and wrinkles. Waste. I can just throw the bit of paper out and get another. Your projected image only has to be 6" or so square! Because your camera is only about 2 feet from it.
The white is important - too cream (grey or blue) and your white balance is out. White is MUCH better than silver, it makes your lights lighter. (who invented silver anyway??? - paint white on a grey wall, and usually you can see the grey through it, right?)
So...piece of a4 or a3 paper, or melamine, or a nice matt smooth white wall, or even a white door (with no paint marks) will do fine. No need for a real screen, which is WAAAY too big anyway.
Joe: Thanks! I'm so glad you find it useful. Telecine units are what you're talking about. They're simple black boxes with various mirrors or screens that reflect the projected image (through one hole) onto the mirror and reflect it at 45 degrees out through onto a mini screen at which you point your camera for capturing. I've had a couple, and none are better than projecting directly onto a 'paper' or screen or wall. AFter all, it's quality you're after, not just ease. I think there's a number of reasons for this. a) direct projection, rather than being reflected of various mirrors etc. b) one screen to clean, not 2 or 3. c) you can see the projection more easily for focus and adjustment of speed.
However, I know some people have found them useful. I would suggest this is because they didn't want to fiddle with 'table height' and getting the camera in the right spot for framing the projection, and making sure the camera isn't in the picture etc. But after that initial fiddling is done, it's quite straightforward. All the other fiddling is necessary in both setups. Focus, framing, projector speed.
I don't know anyone who said the telecine unit produced better quality production than 'the door or wall or on paper'. 
Please, any questions I'd be happy to answer. I got some of my answers off the 8mm forum online, it's mostly about projectors. But if you want to clean your projector up before going ahead, have a look! (don't forget to do that...it's annoying to have fluff in the projection!)
Jenny
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https://youtu.be/cR4X5wJys5A - a mini clip of 1960s standard 8mm film transferred, and edited with CLPD13
Cyberlink PD13 can edit your film transfers beautifully and create wonderful productions.
I've been doing my own 1960s 8mm film transfers for about 2 years now, and had some wonderful ideas, tips and tricks from this forum and through perseverence. I thought others may like to know my system if they're attempting to transfer their own old film home movies to video and edit them.
Above is my youtube link to a 4.5 minute mini movie, I've cut up one of my movies to give you a view of what can be achieved with Cyberlink PD13 editing the old film. Remember, film is not HD, only the video camera is, so it's not as clear as modern video!
For those with old 8mm film, you only need an adjustable speed projector, a handicam, a white piece of paper, and a table. That's it!
Now that film is getting old, it's imperative that those who have celluloid film protect it by copying it to digital before it degrades to far. Here's how I do it. I hope it helps someone out there:
1. I have a digital camcorder (I use a panasonic tm900, or my sony pj760 handicam) they take nice AVCHD video so I can make dvds or blu rays, and it's high def enough to look lovely on an hd tv or pc.
2. The projector must have a speed adjustment knob, otherwise you'll get th horizontal black flickering bars due to the frame rate being slightly different, therefore frames get caught in the 'video' instead of being optically ignored.
3. Seet up the projector on a table with the camcorder directly infront, underneath the projector lens. I make sure the camcorder is not throwing a shadow on the projection. The camcorder can't be too far below the projector else a keystone effect will be visible.
4. I focus on a piece of text (like a magazine) stuck to the screen first, using manual focus on the camcorder. Then I remove the text and project instead, adjusting the projection until sharp.
5. The camcorder should be set on a normal daytime setting.
6.I fill the screen to about 80% with the projected picture, leaving some black areas around the picgture, this means I'm definitely capturing the whole projection, and looks better ultimately due to differnet screen sizes ie 4:3 projection, on a 16:9 tv.
7. Test the projection, looking through the digital camcorder, to make sure there are no 'frames' flickering. if you cans ee them, adjust the projector's speed until they're gone.
8. Keep a dimmed light on, so you can see what you're doing. It also reduces the very contrasty effect.
9. Record the whole reel, no need to stop. while recording I like to 'announce' the name of the reel at the start (to the camcorder) so that later, if you forget which reel was which, it's on the digital recording. I also often announce names and places,...this would be useful for anyone else viewing these original digital files later.
10. Import it to CLPD13 as usual.
11. Listen to the name of the reel and name the project accordingly.
12. Uncheck the sound of the projector in the clip's track one.
13. If there is any major change to colour, do it now, to the whole clip or series of clips.
14. The big one....I like to put a 'mask' (I use the rectangular one with 'keep aspect ratio' unchecked) over the whole projection. This makes nice neat, sharp edges and ultimately looks better than the fuzzy projector's edges, especially if you're adding titles and effects.
15. Now you're in the position of having done all the 'whole' clip edits, and can carve it up. First play it fast forward and split and cut out all the obvious bloopers, feet etc.
16. Start at the start and make a nice title and introduction. Play through at normal speed. Add in captions for places and people where required, nice titles for important events like birthdays, christmases etc, add Pips and effects that you want.
17. I often split clips and add nice transitions where subject matter changes. It also eliminates those faded ends of film.
18. I add credits, to acknowledge the cameraman, locations, and music.
19. Last job....I go back to the beginning and add in music to the track below the main video track. I research music, instrumental usually, that matches the era and 'feeling' of the video. If it's too long, I use the audio transitions, or simply fade it out by lowering the volume to zero in the appropriate places. It's the music, I feel, that really makes the video.
20. It's really important to have saved your work in different incarnations 'save as' , a, b, c etc... along the way, incase you have a glitch, you can always go back to the last time it worked without loosing all your efforts! At the very end, after you've produced and finished the project, you can 'pack project materials' in a folder you've made and that way all the original files used will be there if you ever need them again.
That's my system, hope someone can get use out of it. It's so much fun, and Cyberlink Powerdirector is so great for this type of application. Hope you enjoy my miniclip.
Jenny
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Cyberlink PD13 is absolutely FANTASTIC for the editing of my 1960s celluloid film. It's a 'trek' but it has wonderful results: Here's a snippet of mine (about 5mins long, that you can see what I mean, what I do with cyberlink pd13. I have cut this down and joined bits together so you can see a variety of sequences, (it's not all this disjointed!) the original is about 40 minutes long, and I have 5 of them so far!!)
https://youtu.be/cR4X5wJys5A
I've been doing my own transferring of 1960s standard 8mm and super 8mm film to video for about 2 years now. I ahve had wonderful ideas come from this forum, and I thought some people might like to know how to do it - this is my system, I know you all might have different ways of doing it, but this works for me.
So, here's what I do.
1. I have a digital camcorder. I use either my Panasonic Tm900, or a Sony pj760 handicam. They take High definition digital files with the .m2ts format. (incase you care about that??!) I have found this the easiest as some of my recipients don't have bluray so I make them dvds. AVCHD can be made into either dvd or blu ray, and looks great on a hd tv or pc.
2. The projector: MUST have a speed adjustment knob, otherwise you'll get the horizontal black 'flickering' bars due to the frame rate being slightly different, therefore frames get caught in the 'video' instead of being optically ignored.
3.I set up my projector on a table with the camcorder directly underneath it. With the camcorder and projection going, I make sure the camcorder is not making a shadow in the picture, however it can't be too far below the projector else a keystone effect will be visible.
4. I focus my camera on the screen, which is about 2ft away, and it's easiest (someone recently told me) to focus on some print or text on the screen with manual focus, prior to recording then leave it on that setting.
5. I fill the camcorcder screen to about 80% with the projected picture, leaving some black areas around the picture, this means I'm definitely capturing the whole projection, it also looks better ultimately due to different screens sizes - your film is 4:3, your tv is probably 16:9. by leaving black edges you can easily make it look nice in CLPD13.
6. turn the lights out, but leave a dimmed light on, both to reduce contrast, and also so you can see what you're doing! make sure there's no shadow on your screen. Test the projection, looking THROUGH the digital camcorder, to make sure there are no 'frames', flickering. If you can see them, adjust the projector's speed until you can't see the frames.
7. go! record the whole reel, No need to stop.
8. While you're recording, if you have more than one reel, 'announce' the name of the reel, (to your camcorder) and date etc, at the start, so that if you don't have time to edit it immediately, you won't forget which reel is which as the sound of your announcement will be on the recording. I sometimes also 'announce' places and people, if I remember them. This might be important to someone later, if they ever use the original files you're taking.
9. Obviously import it to CPD13 however you usually do it.
...here's where I have my own system.
10. The first thing I do is listen to my announcement of reel name, and name the Project in CPD13.
11. Next I uncheck the 'sound' in track one, so that the projector sound is gone.
12. Next, if there is any major adjustment to colour, I do that to the whole big clip, before I start carving it up. If your camcorder is good, it probably doesn't need it.
13. The big one, ...next I put a 'mask', I like the rectangular one, over the projection's edges because I don't like the fuzzy edges. you have to uncheck the 'aspect ratio' so you can drag the edges perfectly to the right spot. This tidies up the projections edges, and makes them nice and sharp. It makes it look better then, if you add captions or effects.
14. NOW I'm in the position where all the 'whole' clip edits are done, and I can carve up.
15. First I play it 'fast forward' and split and cut out all the obvious wrong bits, feet, etc....
16. Then I start at the start, put in a title and introduce it.
I keep playing the video and split and cut bits out, add in some captions on certain pages using the Title library, and add in any effects, pips, or other things I want.
17. I often make a split between scenes, and add things like a nice transition when the subject matter changes. It also helps when the film sort of 'reddens' or fades between scenes as it tends to do with age. You can delete these. I add titles to christmases, and birthdays, and important things like big holidays or 'first day of school etc'.
18. Lastly I sometimes put credits at the end, to acknowledge my dad, the cameraman, say where the locations were etc.
19. Then I go back to the beginning. I ad in music to match with each section...using audio transitions where needed, or...if the sequence is shorter than the music, I often just fade it off and start up another piece of music to match with the next clip. The music goes from the title page to the credits, I try to research instrumentals that match the era and feeling of the movie, and I always think MAKES the video.
20. It's really important to then save your work, many times, as different incarnations of the project 'a, b, c, etc.', so that if something goes wrong, you can always go back to the last time it worked properly. Then, at the end, when you've produced your video and happy with it as finished, 'pack the project' into a folder and export it somewhere safe, incase you change your mind about something later. I learned that too, on this forum....this forum is fantastic.
Anyway, that's my system. It's fun!!!
Most of the people here already know most of this, but I thought...after a couple of years of testing and trying, and tricks and tips, others may get use out of this 'how to.'
Jenny
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Hi Networkguru,
I've been doing my own 1960s standard 8mm, and super8mm transfers for about 2 years now. I have had wonderful ideas come from this forum, and also some great ones from the '8mmforum' which you'll find online.
BTW. It's possible that the reason your digital film looks grainy is because your camcorder is set to a high ISO setting, like 'night scene'. You should set your camcorder to auto, or a normal day setting...or do a couple of tests. It might be defaulting to a night type setting. This will make your video more sensitive to light, so easier to take night time video, but it makes it grainy...the higher the iso the grainier.
So....either use a manual setting, or make sure it's just a daytime setting. It should turn out great, if your projection is nice and bright, and you're not leaving toooooo much black screen around the edge. Your digital camcorder should take great video of a projected image.
Your whole set up sounds familiar, but I have some minor changes. Incase it's of any use to you, here's how I do it. By the way, Cyberlink PD13 is absolutely FANTASTIC for the editing of my 1960s celluloid film. It's a 'trek' but it has wonderful results: Here's a snippet of mine (about 5mins long, that you can see what I mean, what I do with cyberlink pd13. I have cut this down and joined bits together so you can see a variety of sequences, the original is about 40 minutes long, and I have 5 of them so far!!) https://youtu.be/cR4X5wJys5A
So, here's what I do.
1. I have a digital camcorder. I use either my Panasonic Tm900, or a Sony pj760 handicam. They take High definition digital files with the .m2ts format. (incase you care about that??!)
2. The projector: MUST have a speed adjustment knob, otherwise you'll get the horizontal black 'flickering' bars due to the frame rate being slightly different, therefore frames get caught in the 'video' instead of being optically ignored.
3.I set up my projector on a table with the camcorder directly underneath it. With the camcorder and projection going, I make sure the camcorder is not making a shadow in the picture, however it can't be too far below the projector else a keystone effect will be visible.
4. I focus my camera on the screen, which is about 2ft away, and it's easiest (someone recently told me) to focus on some print or text on the screen with manual focus, prior to recording then leave it on that setting.
5. I fill the screen to about 80% with the projected picture, leaving some black areas around the picture, this means I'm definitely capturing the whole projection, it also looks better ultimately due to different screens sizes.
6. Test the projection, looking THROUGH the digital camcorder, to make sure there are no 'frames', flickering. If you can see them, adjust the projectors speed until you can't see the frames.
7. go! record the whole thing. No need to stop.
8. While you're recording, if you have more than one reel, 'announce' the name of the reel, (to your camcorder) and date etc, so that if you don't have time to edit it immediately, you won't forget which reel is which as the sound of your announcement will be on the recording.
9. Obviously import it to CPD13 however you usually do it.
...here's where I have my own system.
10. The first thing I do is listen to my announcement of reel name, and name the Project in CPD13.
11. Next I uncheck the 'sound' so that the projector sound is gone.
12. Next, if there is any major adjustment to colour, I do that to the whole big clip, before I start carving it up.
13. The big one, ...next I put a 'mask', I like the rectangular one, over the projection's edges because I don't like the fuzzy edges. you have to uncheck the 'aspect ratio' so you can drag the edges perfectly to the right spot.
14. NOW I'm in the position where all the 'whole' clip edits are done, and I can carve up.
15. First I play it 'fast forward' and split and cut out all the obvious wrong bits, feet, etc....
16. Then I start at the start, put in a title and introduce it.
I keep playing the video and split and cut bits out, add in some captions on certain pages using the Title library, and add in any effects, pips, or other things I want.
17. I often make a split between scenes, and add things like a nice transition when the subject matter changes.
18. Lastly I sometimes put credits at the end, to acknowledge my dad, the cameraman, say where the locations were etc.
19. Then I go back to the beginning. I ad in music to match with each section...using audio transitions where needed, or...if the sequence is shorter than the music, I often just fade it off and start up another piece of music to match with the next clip. The music goes from the title page to the credits, and I always think MAKES the video.
20. It's really important to then save your work, 'pack the project' into a folder and export it somewhere safe, incase you change your mind about something later. I learned that too, on this forum....this forum is fantastic.
Anyway, that's my system. It's fun!!!
I really hope you are getting good results, and find something useful in these notes,
best wishes, Jenny
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Has anyone reported losing pips or particles on downloading the new patch?
I may be wrong (as I often am) but suddenly I can't find the template with the 'holiday' candy canes and gifts that fall from the top of the screen. I also see a lot of new ones that weren't there before, and though I can't put my finger on it, I seem to think there are some old ones missing. I think they could have been in the 3D section?
so two questions.. anyone missing pips and particles? was that part of the new patch to replace with new ones?
and ...if I was to look for pips and particles that belonged to my CL11, where would I look, and how would I get them back. (I'm not very techy, sorry...)
Thanks Guys.
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I'd like to see a sorting option that sorts USED from UNUSED clips/pics/audio in the library the same way it sorts audio/video/images.
When a lot of mixed footage, clips or photos are on the timeline,...or audio background clips for that matter, are in the library, I have found it useful in other editors to be able to sort out which ones I have not used yet. A quick click in Panasonic's HD writer, for example, shows me which clips I haven't yet used in a sequence from many cameras. I have found this feature also in the editors for Photo Books, a sorter shows me which photos I have not yet used. It's great, and would be very useful in cyberlink.
The green ticks are good, of course, but it makes going through many clips in the library very tedious.
Jenny.
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That's great, Tony, thanks.
And, well, I'd make a suggestion to Cyberlink that library items could be sorted by used/unused. I've used 3 other editing programs, none as good as this one, and they all had the ability to sort out the used clips.
thanks again,
Jenny
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1. When I've made a 30 minute project I click SVRT on the Produce page to see what % it comes up with. It takes AGES to analyse, like 15-20 minutes. I seem to remember this happening a lot faster, seconds. It's occurred 4-5 times now. Does yours take this long? My SVRT track keeps disappearing on the Edit screen.
2. CAN YOU - apply an enhancement, eg white balance change - to a few selected/highlighted clips? I very often have to do this when a group of clips, say 5 indoor clips, look bad, but the rest of the movie is fine. It would be easier than the rigmarole of colourdirector. It would save having to adjust every single one. I don't like the round trip to colourdirector. It slows up my editing and mucks up my playing timeline.
3. CAN YOU - Search / sort unused clips in the media library, instead of trying to find the un-checked ones.?
4. (dumb question) Why are there CRR .cds files in my documents. For that matter, why is any cyberlink folder in my documents? Can I move it to somewhere more sensible without mucking up my half made projects or software? I seem to have the bulk of cyberlink in My documents folder,a nd only PowerProducer in User file. I'm not good with files, so I never change the path of anything. But not sure how they've ended up split, and in My documents.
that's it for me for a bit....
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Hi there,
thankyou for that,
I don't know why but the folder C/Users>user>cyberlink> only has the PowerProducer folder, plus 3 powerdirector patches: 2123 3230 3265.
The path with PowerDirector in it is in My Documents!!! I didn't put it there.
The path is as follows: C>users>user>Documents>cyberlink>(and that has all the audiodirector, custom menus, cyberlink cloud etc, plus a lot of downloads I think (CDR?) frames, local storage, powerdvd, and Powerdirector.) >Powerdirector> 11.0 (and 13.0 and a patch 2229, ) > in 11 is 4184,6912,??, cropped pictures, MyParticles (has some in) My PinPs - NOTHING IN IT - My Titles with some in, etc.
This is all very odd.
I never fiddle with files, or change the path that cyberlink wants to put things when downloading.
But this doesn't seem right to me.
What should I do?
a) about6 missing Cyberlink 11.0 things,
b) putting the folders where they are supposed to go....documents doesn't seem sensible! And would it muck everything up if I changed them. I have lots of home made templates and titles these days.
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Kmot, I have the exact same problem whenever I edit any clip in colour director.
Have any of your clips been edited this way?
If I do, I have the video racing off down the track, often skipping huge chunks and stopping at the end, with the audio still playing along as it should. It usually then stops, freezing at some stage. I have m2ts files, not mov, but the same issue whenever editing with colourdirector.
However, I had PD9 years ago, and edited ALL my .mov files from my old JVC camera with it. No problem (except an aspect ratio problem).
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Two projects ago, before I bought my new PD13, I used a great particle called pdr11_particle_049. I know this because I found it in the packed project.
I need it again for another project, but it's not in my PD13 particles. It's not a downloaded one, I think it was a pd11 one (due to it's name.) What have I done? Have I accidentally deleted the folder it was in (when I tidied up the PD11 off my computer?). Darn it, how many other things have I lost...and how do I get them back then?
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Suggestion for anyone who cares - I would love to have an 'agree' button, or a 'like' (almost hate to say it) button.
This is a lovely post, great work Kevin. It would seem you made your wife's night very special, and you have simultaneously joined the ranks of the bleary eyed editors.
Cyberlink is both stimulating and frustrating, but can produce the most amazing memories, and lets face it, that's what we're all after.
oh...and Barry? I think I forgot to feed my teenagers....I'd better get going......ha ha ....
Good job Kevin.
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Is there any reason my SVRT analysis is taking ages? (about 30 mins, only half of which is edited at the moment, thought I'd 'produce range' and so am analysing first.)
It's only behaved this way on this project. Wonder what I've done wrong? it's taking 30 minutes to analyse the project of only 28mins of clips, usually it does it in just ONE minute.
?
Thanks, Jenny
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I have the same problem and documented (ok ranted) about it in my post: PD13 Fix/enhance problems, crash, slow, cursor jumping, audio/video splitting.http://forum.cyberlink.com/forum/posts/list/41052.page " target="_new" rel="nofollow"> http://forum.cyberlink.com/forum/posts/list/41052.page
I've found this happens mostly when the Fix/Enhance button is used. My cursor doesn't only jump a few frames, it stops completely in the preview window, but jumps to somewhere near the very end of the line of clips on the timeline. Most inconvenient.
I'm having trouble with it right now.... Only 30 mins of video on the timeline, and only 5 mins edited so far with colour director,...but that's enough for it to play up.
I'm considering 'producing range' of 5 minutes at a time, I think that would help.???
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Hi all,
I was so pleased to learn about 'produce range'. Whether it is new to PD13, or whether I didn't see it on PD11 - I'm not sure, but 1Nina told me about it on this forum. It's a great way to produce small parts of the production, saving time later.
However, another great thing is the pack project and export feature.
My question relates to both of these topics.
If I 'produce range', I notice it does NOT replace the section of clips, as...say...the slideshow wizard does.
I am wondering about the most efficient way to pack and export my project, at the very end, with a system that will keep all the clips I used (I learned that off PDToots Tony, thanks!) and will NOT double up on the size of the packed product if I preproduce ranges.
I'm mixed up about producing ranges. If I replace my clips with the produced range, then the clips used will not be in the export? only the produced one will? is that right?
So...how to produce in parts to save time, but also preserve the original clips in the library used, so that I can export them all.
What do you do?
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acg/Alan, OP aside, can I just ask how you are converting your standard and super 8mm films? I'd love to know. Have done many myself, the hard way. Projecting and re-filming with a HD camera. I have too many to take to a lab. What about you?
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thanks Nina! I understand now.
No, when I said 1.5 hours, I mean it's taking 1.5 hours to render the 10 minute sequence. There is the odd title, fade, etc, but plenty of colourdirector use, and video enhancement. I think this is what is taking the time....but 1.5 hours?? for only 10 minutes? That seems a l0ong time to render to me.
I spend hours and hours editing. I don't think I'm as talented as you, you have made some beautiful frames etc, I think PDToots gave me one recently (that is you, right? who made the frames?)
I love it.
But PD13 has been very difficult for me so far. I've come from PD11.
This latest project has a few .mov files from my son's iphone, combined with m2ts files from my camcorder. Some are std def and mine are 50i. I think this has mucked up my editing suite a little. I've had dreadful problems with jittery production.
So....the settings.I have deselected shadow files in General,
but some I am unsure if they are affecting my jittery production....
General: enable HD video processing? I have this checked.
hardware Acceleration: Enable Open CL technology.... I have this checked???
Enable Hardware decoder > I have this checked??? but hardware decoder on Produce screen is greyed out??why?
In Produce: reduce blocky artifacts - checked.
Reduce video noise - checked
>allow SVRT on single IDR... - deselected.??? what does this mean??
I am not sure which settings to check and which to uncheck.
I usually work in HD, 50i and sometimes 50p (this time it's a combo of std def and high def though)
I have a good graphics card, amd radeon HD 7800series, and an i7 processor, lots of memory and it's a fairly good setup.
So I'm not sure why render of this project is soooooio slow, and why it's often coming out jittery.
Wonder if you can help?
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Quote:
I keep doing this, and if PD is cooperative I might have a full project in this main project.
If not, I have the pre-produced bits.
oh, and Nina, I didn't quite understand this statement....can you clarify?
Thanks, Jenny.
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