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Carl and jr - they are wonderful replies, thankyou.
You've answered a lot of my questions.
Carl - I never gave a thought as to the 'steadiness' of my camera. I had actually started the project on a card table, with the camera on a small tripod, but right on the table next to the projector. It didn't occur to me that there would be vibration.
I'll deal with that instantly. I'll mount the camera on a tripod as close to, but under the projector table.
I will also keep my transfers in H264. I thought as much, but as I don't understand files at all, I do rely on you guys to tell me!! I'm learning though.
I'm trying to get the best possible projection, which should result in the best possible image transfer. I'll let you know how it goes in a week or so with a demo clip straight out of the 1960s!
I've heard (and tried it, on my Hanimex DualMatic projector) that with a variable speed projector, the flicker is much reduced or even eliminated by adjusting the speed that the film is playing at. I successfully eliminated the flicker completely, though had to have my hand on the speed dial all of the time for fine tuning. This is on the old Hanimex, I have a new Sankyo variable speed projector and hoping it will do the same.
CARL -
As to the flicker, you will have to experiment. Setting the camera to 50 or 60 fps may reduce the flicker. If the camera has a 24 fps setting, try that
I don't quite understand this. Sorry to sound such an imbecile, but I just use my HA setting which is 1080/50i (so I can make blu rays and dvds).
JR I live in Sydney, PAL too. I don't know how to find out what speed the original film was shot in, some say 18fps some 24.
A slow down of the speed of the old Hanimex resulted in eliminating the flicker, but I still never worked out a) what the original speed was b) what speed I was playing it at (no marks on the dial.) I guess it didn't matter. But now I have a new projector (or will in a week) it may be worth finding out, but how??
I don't believe my film has sound. I think it's silent.
I learned lots of things from your responses, will get back to you with results.
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I'm part way through about 3 x projects at once (Capturing VHSC, Hi 8 Video, ) and now attempting to transfer my 8mm film from the 50s 60s and 70s into PowerDirector.
This is kind of a general question, enquiring if anyone else has attempted this and with what equipment.
My father was a cinematographer, so getting it done professionally is out of the question. (last quote $5500 for my approx. 10,000 feet of film!!).
I have a Hanimex Dualmatic projector with variable speed, which is required to eliminate camera flicker when recording the film onto a camcorder.
I have a Panasonic TM900, and am using 1080 50i (so that I can make avchd dvds) and
I am going to edit it in Cyberlink PD11. (trim, fades, titles, but that's really all.)
Then I'm going to make avchd dvds and blu rays for the family.
1. My Hanimex projector is a bit skanky, speedwise, not very stable, so I'm looking at a Sankyo 1000H projector, variable speed from 14fps to 18fps. I wonder if this variance is satisfactory to coincide with my Panasonic TM900 HD video cameras speed (that I don't really understand) to reduce or eliminate shutter flicker. Does any one out there understand, and can you explain the speed I would need to have the projector at, I don't want to buy this great projector if 14-18fps is not applicable to my situation.
2. The trapezoid effect is very minimal, when the camera is not exactly in line with the projector (obviously.) I can't think of a way around this except I've seen those portable mirror telecine things, anyone used one? Quality of projection??? same, better? worse? on ebay for about $20.
3. Has anyone an opinion on whether it's best to shoot a close up, small projection, or a further away, larger projected image?
4. Files again...confuse me. Should I produce them as avi files?? or am I going make H264 AVC files ?(remember I want to make blu rays, avchd dvds and also store the files for safety.)
So....who out there has tried this monumental task, transferring old 8mm film to hd camera, then to cyberlink for editing? and how did you go?
(Why do I do this to myself....?? Because it's good fun!)
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Using all your deductions, I think I may have solved it.
Used another vcr to play same tape, (a vcr that I KNOW works). Worked for a bit then same error code later. Tape did not play.
So tested it on Windows Movie Maker, black screen Barry.
Fiddling with Cyberlink and with canopus to ensure connections,
I thought Carls idea was clever,...maybe no video, but not NO video, dirty video?? these are very old tapes.
Used a head cleaner. No change, but I was getting random screens, some snow, some black. This was a good sign.
I then surprised myself using http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_5_1/diy6vcrcleaning.html I undid the top of my vcr and cleaned the drum head and heads.
I'm not sure why, but I think combination of old tape, dirty heads, the odd tracking problem or blank spot in the tape VERSUS the software of the Canopus converter and Cyberlink...I think they're all fighting.
Somehow they're interpreting the snow/dirt/tape/tracking as a different 'mode' since it's not getting the 'signal' it wants. (I'm so un-technical!!) Hooray, it wasn't me!!
I think I'll clean the heads every half a tape. Then see how I go.
Your suggestions helped me deduce that it's the vcr, not the software. Thankyou so much. This (VHSC) is only part of the massive undertaking I've been at for a year now, and I don't know what I'd do without you guys! - one VHSC down, 12 more to go. 
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Or maybe I pressed a button on this new (old) vcr and it's set it to ntsc when I have pal tapes??? I'll have to look that up.
Would that cause this?
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Hi Carl,
Unfortunately no, that's not it.
In all my previous conversions, I'd successfully set the canopus converter to Pal, and everything was fine (through the handicam for Hi
Now I'm using a vcr and a cassette adapter for my vhsc.
The first two tapes were fine, and they're all the same, they're all Pal, they both were fine, the third though just has a blank black screen and the error message comes up, the converter light sometimes swaps to dig in, instead of analog in ??? and the message talks about HDV, and although I'm not that knowledgable about video, I think that means High definition video? and my vhsc definitely isn't that! The cyberlink recognises the vcr as a DV device and says vcr on the bottom . So I don't know why the error code says HDV.
I can't understand why it worked before, but not now, and why the error message came up in the middle of the first convert, but it seemed to be working just fine, and kept converting even though the error message was there. I ignored it, and it was fine! But not now. Confusing.
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Hi there.
I've had great success with my Canopus advc110 converter capturing on Cyberlink.
I've converted lots of Hi8 video, and have just started on my vhsc.
I have a vcr and a vhsc tape adapter cassette.
My first test was fine, I hooked it all up, vhs played perfectly, and the vhsc tape played quite well through the converter and was recorded to mpeg2 (hq dvd quality).
Half way through I got an error message:
"You cannot use the capture function because the iLINK mode on the HDV device is not indentical to the recorded format on the tape. Check the tape status or make sure the content of the tape is in HDV format then reconnect the iLINK again."
Now, when I saw that message, I saw the tape was still recording, but I stopped the recording to check on the conversion. It was converting and recording just fine!
So I started it again, and finished the cassette tape.
Now I've put the second one in, the same vcr and adapter, with the same canopus settings. Nothing changed.
But I keep getting that error message and can't record now for some reason.
These are all identical little tapes, there should be no reason for it to be any different.
In fact, I even popped my regular vhs tape in that I first used to see if it worked, and now IT won't work either.
I have a Panasonic NV-SJ230 old vcr.
I don't get it, and I don't understand what that error message means.
The Canopus converter keeps swapping signal light from Analog to Digital in, and I have to keep pressing it to swap it back over. That didn't happen before. Also....it's not HDV format, ..is it? I thought it was just DV. Why would the Cyberlink error message be talking about HDV??
Any help would be appreciated.
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Further to this thread, when looking through 'free' video backgrounds, such as the type usable for video menus, or title pages etc, is there a certain file type that I should be looking for?? Or any type that should be avoided? I see a lot on you tube but don't know how to download them or even if they're suitable.
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I too, love PD Toots, I found them sooo easy to watch, and learned most of my most important PD Lessons here.
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Geoff, I'm a newbie too, but I have a blu ray player (and now a writer!!), but before I got the blu ray writer I used to make AVCHD dvd's on the dvd writer in my old computer, and just PLAY them on the blu ray player on the TV. They looked absolutely amazing. You'll be amazed at the difference the upscale can make, even though it's still only a dvd, the difference is remarkable. The original files still need to be the higher resolution to make the massive difference, but any file..played through a blu ray player, upscales it just a bit...I don't know why, or how, but yes, you need a blu ray player, and maybe later a writer instead of the dvd writer. It's just fantastic.
Re the resolution... you would be best to right click on the original file to find the properties, then the actual original resolution of the file. Probably 720 x 576 (or something like that as you're prob in USA) and also take note of the mbps (or whatever they are,...I told you I'm a newbie!!). But then, when you output it, you need to find the closest match to that. I learned this on another thread (you may find it, something about being 'jittery') The thing is, you can't produce (or output) a resolution higher than the footage was originally taken in. So if you took dvd style, mpeg2 footage at 720 x 576 25i resolution, at 8mbps, then try to find the same or as similar as you can. That will enable the program to produce it in as close as possible to your original.
You can't 'upscale' footage, except I believe some TVs and blu ray players can make things appear a little better than they are.
Just my take, I believe I'm right...I imagine someone will correct me if I'm not. This may be the reason your footage looks 'slow', maybe not slow but juddery, or jittery or almost like bits are missing.
good luck,
it's a BIG learning curve,
Jenny.
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Carl, thankyou! I thought it was good too, particularly as the lux was quite low in that one. (but it was a GREAT camera that only Sony handycam, it could've filmed in a black hole!)
I did a massive experiment (see other thread) and liked the Mpeg2 capture > AVC produce > AVCHD dvd combination the best. I think!! I believe that as std def can't get any higher, that the only difference here must be the capture and produce parts of the equation??? Not even sure that producing as avc is making a difference. Anyway. Seemed good. Will continue to capture in Mpeg 2 now as have done about 10 hours, only about 20 x 1.5 hour hi8 tapes to go, then onto the vhsc earlier ones!
You've all been great. Thank goodness for the forum.
oh, yes, that was from the Canopus ADVC110. With my black and yellow lead input from camera, firewire to the pc, and set to PAL capture.
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I just tried a very time consuming experiment. I wanted to see what I could SEE on the large TV, how the quality would differ from one to another, so I could choose the best that looked to MY eye. I don't understand files, size, compression, etc, but I cand see a pin in a haystack, so that's my best way of choosing. So...
I captured 3 clips off my old hi 8 camcorder into PD11
the first 3 I captured in Mpeg2 Fine
the second time the same three but in AVI
the third time, same three, in Mpeg2 Fast. (something to do with the speed, not sure what.)
Then Produced all 9 clips (above) into MPeg2 files
Then Produced the smae 9 clips again, but into AVI files,
And again, into AVC files. Now I have 27 clips produced 9 different ways.
I then wrote those to an MPeg2 dvd disc.
Then I wrote the same files, but this time to an avchd dvd.
Of course then I had to watch them all. Lucky I love my kids, and I didn't capture any 'whining' noises!! lol.
Here's the results:
Looked Good: I feel MPeg2 , producing to mpeg2 and writing to mpeg2 disc was a 4/5.
Avi Capture, avi produce to mpeg2 disc looked good 4/5
Mpeg 2 capture to AVc to and avchd disc looked maybe the best.
and mpeg2 capture to mpeg2 produce to avchd looked good too.
It's hard to watch all the clips and still be able to judge, but some were extremely jittery, and some artefact-y. The Captured Avi, produced to Mpeg2 was awful and pixelated. the other way around it was artifacty.
there's probably obvious reasons why these looked good to me, (on a fairly large dig hd tv screen) while others didn't. I'm looking at them on a disc through a blu ray player.
Is there any reason why writing them to a blu ray disc instead of dvd ultimately will change the quality? I haven't tested the whole lot on a blu ray disc yet (waste of a good disc). But can you put mpeg2 on a blu ray?
My result was that I liked the look of the capture of Mpeg2 produced to AVC and put on an avchd dvd best. I'm wondering if that's going to be the same putting in on blu ray (purpose only to put a lot on one disc).
I'm still confused about which I should ultimately choose, as there may be a reason why
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Jaime, I dont' mind if the files are huge, I have plenty of space, but it's more about the quality for me. Quality of the stored file for future use or saving, and quality of the resulting dvd.
Are you saying capture in avi, and produce to mpeg2? (that was one of my 'results' that looked good compared to others) The capture to mpeg2 and produce to mpeg2 was obviously fast, but didn't look much, was a bit fuzzy.
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I started this as a new thread (from my how to capture video) as I feel it's a completely different topic.
Capturing standard definition video from camcorder through converter to PD11.
Completely confused as to the file types and preferences I should choose for my needs and best quality.
There are three stages at which I have to choose file type / preferences.
1. The initial capture. - avi or mpeg2
2. In the produce screen of PD11 produce to Avi, Mpeg2 (DVD HQ), or even....aaaggh...the AVC option. (which sounded good when I looked at it properly??)
3. Then on the create disc page, dvd or avchd....
I guess it's important what I want to do with it.
1. I want to edit out video of my feet (lol), and blank bits, bloopers,..so mainly splice. maybe add a title or two, nothing much else.
2. then I want to save the digital copy on my external hard drive for safety, so I can use it any time I want.
3. Importantly I want to make discs of it, I can make dvds or blu rays (have a blu ray burner). Only standard def, so blu ray not going to be high qual except can fit tons on the disc.
I did a test, as Carl suggested.
a) captured to avi, and captured to mpeg2, put them together produced as an mpeg 2 file and put on dvd.
b) captured to avi, and captured to mpeg 2, put them together but produced as an avi file and put on a dvd (I guess this is recoded back to mpeg 2)
It's funny, the captured avi>producd to avi> on dvd looked awful.
the captured mpeg2> produced to avi>on dvd looked good.
the captured avi>produced to mpeg 2>to dvd looked good
and the captured mpeg2>to mpeg2> to dvd looked very average.
I don't get that. I don't really need to know HOW or why, but I would like to know which to choose. Seems odd that recoding from one file type to another got the best results with the least artifacting.
I haven't tried writing a std def (as above)to avchd disc yet. Am I heading in the right direction? or is there an obvious answer. It's doing my head in.
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Holy Guacamole! What the??? It looks good, not sure what it all means though. 
Rob, you're a genius, I wish you were here sitting next to me.
Yep, learned the output of my camera will only be via the yellow and black cable.
So I'm good with my cable, converter and camera.
Now I just have to learn about the output profile. Default is Mpeg 2. HQ DVD. I imagine that means High Quality.
Again, ALL I'm looking for is the original quality of my nice old video, which was gorgeous (but of course played on the old analog tv too). If I can get on, or near that, I'll be very pleased. I'm going to convert a 1hr tape now, using the default capture setting of mpeg2 (any reason I should use AVI???) , then use PD11 to do whatever I need to, to it, and put it on a dvd to see how it looks in my blu ray player on the hd tv. Probably have to reduce the screen size (I said frame size last time and someone took that the wrong way, I meant the size of the tv frame..screen...so it doesn't have so many ...um, pixels...to work with?? because its Std def. Know what I mean?
I've heard murmurings about 'transcoding' or ..?? but I'm going in the dark here, I'm taking the line of least resistance and just going with the flow. Cross fingers.
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Hi Steve, thanks for your reply.
Yes, I'm in Australia, a PAL country.
I have lots of space on my computer, I was just wondering if it makes a difference, the AVI v mpeg 2. Mpeg 2 vob files seem to be the native files of the camcorder. What would be the point in capturing bigger AvI files? Would they be clearer?
The Camcorder is not, I don't think, a high definition camcorder. I think it's standard def. only as I believe Hi 8 only recorded in Standard definition:
SONY CCD-TR516E VIDEO CAMERA HI8 HANDYCAM CAMCORDER 330X ZOOM
Yes, I have a blu ray burner and player. (this new computer rocks.)
I guess I'm looking for the best possible transfer and the best possible play media. Id rather it on blu ray as you suggested it holds a LOT of time. I'm wondering if an S video lead will have the plugs on the other end to match my camcorder (yellow and black.)
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Have had my first go at capturing some video through the Canopus ADVC 110 to PD11 using the original Sony Handicam Camcorder with it's original Hi 8 tapes. Got my firewire lead in and hooked up.
DIP switches on the bottom needed adjusting, 1st five in off position, last switch ON for PAL video.
Next I discovered I don't have an Svideo lead. So I'm just testing with the black and yellow lead, not sure what that's called.
My handicam doesn't have any other ports, just the black and yellow av cable with same at other end. So I guess that goes in the yellow and white ports of the converter.
Hey presto,..there it is.
So play the video through the camera, and press record on the screen.
There it is. The couple of things I'm questioning at the moment are:
1. Will an S video lead be better? Can you get them with the black and yellow connection at one end (to go into my camcorder)
2. PD captures the footage at default Mpeg2 - 'DVD HQ', and that apparently means 720x576. I'm not sure what the speed indicator is, as there's another profile that sais DVD HQ fast. ?? I guess what I'm saying is what profile for Hi 8 video? the default? or a custom. My goal is to have a clear digital copy, as well as be able to transfer these to Blu Ray, or to DVD for playing in a blu ray player at the best possible quality. There is an AVI profile as well. I don't understand file types  
Here's a snippet.
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Nic - I did use the original tapes, the Hi 8 tapes played through the camera dubbed onto the dvd. Doesn't look as nice as my originals. But have to realise that the original analog tapes were played on an analog tv, and now the digital dvd copies are played on a great big digital tv. Just not as good. Have to reduce the frame size to make it look better.
Jeff - ah yes, I see, it IS what you said, not the three altogether. There's the S video, a yellow video out, and a red and white audio. I just mistook it, as I have said previously I'm not au fait with technical components or what they do. But I CAN follow instructions...lol. So I'll use the S video port.
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Hi guys, thanks for your opinions. Lol...nuts and bolts. That's me with videos, tapes, dvds, cds, old audio tapes!!!, etc etc.
Hey Tony, thankyou for that. It was one of your toots that I was REALLY interested in. I learned to 'save as' occasionally so I have different incarnations of my project.
I also learned that the export button can be my best friend. From then on, I always make a designated output folder on my desktop, put all the music files etc in it. I output the production to it too.
At end, I add all the clips, unused clips, music I might like in the future and the made production, into the timeline with a small few minutes break between the real thing and the extras. Then I export the packed file. I save that to my external hard drives ( x 2) .
Hence the question, does the document folder Cyberlink>P.D.>11 have anything in it I will still need? Sounds like you don't think so. Neither do I. If the project has already output successfully then all the different saves of the project are probably irrelevant if I've saved the bits and pieces and output file to the packed folder.
...I get queasy when I'm about to delete things..... 
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That's so weird, when I play it on Media Player, it is OBVIOUSLY stretched, not maybe, or a little bit, but obviously.
I do remember that when I initially made the movies, yes, they're .mod files , I had to make them on Windows Movie Maker, it was the only player that when produced, it turned out ok.
Now, here's the even weirder thing. When I put these 16:9 clips (they ARE widescreen, definitely), but then use 'set clip attributes' to set the clips 'back' to 4:3, apply to all, then they look fine on cyberlink.
Since the clips are appearing as 64:27 in cyberlink, that's 16:9 x 4:3, I figured if I divided it back again, by 4:3 they'd look normal.
And they do. So I guess I'll do that.
I just can't work out, how you can see it unstretched.!! It's not like it's hard to see.
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After the whole project is completed,
Production saved to External hard drives, copies made on blu ray, project materials exported & packed and saved on EHDs, and original files deleted from pc and camera. Phew!
But...the files..I imagine they're the project files, (in all their different stages ,as I read, I think in a PD Toot, that you should 'save as' throughout the session so you have different stages incase something gets corrupted further along) are still in
Documents>Cyberlink >... where they're automatically stored by the software program.
Now I have saved everything to everywhere, including the original files in the export package,...can I delete these cyberlink document files.?? They're certainly building up, and taking space where I don't really need the space taken. Certainly I've got a big storage, 1tB but do I need these? I think perhaps they should be deleted when a project is packed and saved.
What do you do?
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Hey Nic.
Thanks for that great response, and funny you should explain that, I actually have done that, I bought a Panasonic video to dvd dubbing vcr dvd combo unit. I did dub all the video to dvd, but I feel like the vob files aren't what they could be.
So I'm trying the convert.
Kmot, I haven't even tried the diamond. I'm glad, if you say it isn't much, that I didn't!
John, Jaime, Carl...everyone...
I bought the canopus. Just about to try it. I got a firewire card put into my new pc, (it was too new to have one!!).
AND I bought a second hand Panasonic vcr, just incase I need it. I do have my original sony camcorder, so most of the tapes can play through it.
Now...someone said somewhere here they had better results throught he S video than the um...three coloured ports.
I wonder why?
I'll respond when I've had a go at it. Very pleased.
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